Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a global network of cities cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its profound culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the global gaze for what has consistently characterized its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a continued dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known gems that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The vendor beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though express concern that their children are unwilling to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will inspire more people around the world to learn these stories and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
